High up in the Ulley Valley, the backward afternoon air is attenuate and bitterly cold. Hunkered bottomward in a bouldered cleft, Tsewang Namgyal scans the snow-dusted slopes with aged binoculars, his anon lined face attestation to the harsh, aerial distance ambiance of Ladakh. Actuality in India’s Himalayan north, tracking the “grey ghost” has consistently been a physically ambitious undertaking.
“Twice in my activity I’ve apparent a snow leopard,” says Namgyal, shoehorning his anatomy added amid two moss-covered boulders to ablaze a cigarette. “People alarm it the ‘grey ghost’ because it comes and goes and cipher knows it’s there. In the Ladakhi accent we additionally alarm it the ‘ shan’. Bodies accept lived actuality all their lives and accept never apparent one, so I assumption I’m lucky.”
With wisps of smoke ascent from a brace of mud brick barrio on the basin attic below, a bouncer circuit up livestock, the complete of beastly cries and yak accretion aside on the breeze. The biconcave sun bathes the flanks of adjacent ridges in cursory warmth, as aphotic clouds cycle beyond the serrated, snow-clad horizon.
Namgyal calls a arrest to today’s big-cat quest.
WATCH a snow bobcat filmed in Ulley by WildFilmsIndia
“Ladakh is the acreage of abounding passes,” says the guide, acrimonious his way bottomward a
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