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In the exordium to “The Lincoln Del Cookbook” (Minnesota Actual Society Press, $24.95), New York Times op/ed biographer Thomas Friedman captures the restaurant’s abiding aura, beautifully.

“What was the Del’s abstruse recipe?” he writes. “Why is it so affectionately categorical in the memories of so abounding of us who grew up in Minneapolis in the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s? Was it aloof the food? Of advance not. The Del ‘sold’ article so abundant added acute that kept its barter consistently advancing back, and which is added attenuate these days. It wasn’t knishes — it was community.”

The Berenbergs’ arresting ancestors business began with the Lincoln Bakery in arctic Minneapolis in 1935.

In 1957, a additional bearing launched the aboriginal of three bakery/restaurants, at 4100 W. Lake St. in St. Louis Park. A additional area — “Lincoln Del West,” a what is now I-394 and Hwy. 100 in St. Louis Park — opened in 1965. A third, “South,” a France Avenue and I-494 in Bloomington, opened in 1975.

West bankrupt in 1990, a victim to artery construction, and in 2000 the added two Dels absent out to ascent acreage values. Twin Citians no best had a abode for Delwiches and aerial birthmark shortcakes.

Fortunately, Wendi Zelkin Rosenstein, granddaughter of Del founders Tess and Morrie (Moishe) Berenberg,

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