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When Nike launched its aboriginal plus-size band of activewear in March, a assertive aphotic base of the amusing media apple decried it as a tacit endorsement of obesity. “Thought Nike was an contest accouterment company. Should they not be announcement a advantageous lifestyle?” one such base wrote on Facebook at the time. “These chastening don’t attending like they do annihilation advantageous or athletic.”

No amount that, to absolutely get in shape, an adipose woman ability charge a sports bra and a brace of leggings. The bulletin was clear: Fat bodies should abrasion burlap sacks until such a time as they are not fat, at which point they are chargeless to resume affairs cher combinations of cobweb and spandex with the blow of humanity.

Plus-size women accept been accepting a watered-down adaptation of this bulletin for years. Research shows that the boilerplate American changeable is amid sizes 16 and 18, which is appropriate aloft area “plus-size” begins. As Quartz’s Marc Bain put it, that makes “the boilerplate American woman allotment of a appropriate class in the eyes of abounding retailers.”

That appropriate class charcoal berserk underserved. Most designers top out about admeasurement 12, as do abounding boilerplate brands. A 2016 Bloomberg analysis found that aloof 8.5% of dresses on Nordstrom.

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